Log in or Sign up. Find Trucking Jobs. Nov 10, 1. A week ago, we purchased a Freightliner cascadia and are now experiencing a problem when starting the truck. It turns over hard and the message "warning low voltage" appears on the dash. Anyone know what could be causing this?
The engine is a dd Thank you. Farmers WifeNov 10, Kquinsey Thanks this.
Yes, let employers and TruckersReport text me with new opportunities, job alerts and other career information to the number I provided. There is no charge for this service, but standard message and data rates may apply. Nov 10, 2.
Farmers Wife Thanks this. Nov 10, 3. It could be any number of things but I would start with the basics. First, get a good multimeter and check the voltage at the back of the alternator with the truck running to be sure your alternator is charging. You should have between Next check all the battery connections to be sure they are tight, clean, and not damaged.
I have seen the ring ends crack and though they appear tight if you touch them they will break off. Be sure to follow the wiring all the way back to the starter to check that end as well.Smokeping arping
If the alternator is charging and you don't find a bad connection then you will need to load test your batteries. To do this you will need a load tester which can be bought at any auto parts store. Make sure your batteries are fully charged then disconnect them completely and test one at a time.
If you find a bad battery I suggest replacing them all at the same time, they work best when closely matched. Another thing that may be causing low voltage warning and hard starting is if you are using an inverter or other accessories with the engine off, especially if the batteries are a little weak or if the truck only has two or three batteries, which is common in former fleet trucks to save money. Nov 10, 4. Thank you for the response.
Unfortunately we can not test them ourselves. Don't have the equipment but will be taking truck to a Freightliner dealer in a few days for some other work. Just wanted to see if anyone had a similar problem. Nov 10, 5. Owning a truck will be much more profitable if you start building a good tool kit and learning how to use them. Buying some basic test equipment and learning how to use it will be much cheaper than running to a shop or dealer every time something pops up.
The dealer is going to nail you at least an hour just to look at it, that will cost more than double what the tools to do it yourself would cost, and you will have the tools for the next time.By MarkKathyJuly 4, in Electrical. Checked the instrument cluster fuses both were fine.
Had power to the fuse and grounded properly. Back lights work and turn signal lights work, other than that the dash is dead What you have is a bad solenoid. It can be found with your fuse panel. With the key on take a test light ground it and check for 12 volt power at the solenoid. There should be two cables on the solenoid.
You should have 12 volts on both sides of the solenoid if not then your solenoid is defective. When you get a replacement be sure that it is a 12 volt continuous duty solenoid of adequate amp capacity.
Your can get them at most auto parts stores. With the the ignition switch turned on engine not running the instrument panel should be active. You posted that the cluster fuses where both good. That could indicate a defective ground or a Defective Display. If the data is not received from the VDC for more then 45 seconds, the Icon lights will "Dance" or initiate a chase pattern. More great feedback Rich. Thank you. There is no chase pattern or "dancing". I have it into a Motorhome shop today.
Their initial thoughts are defective panel. It starts, it runs, the fuses are good and there is power and everything grounded. One question, Wolfe 10 you mentioned "common issue with this chassis" so I have to ask If the instruments are dead with good power and ground then you will probably get a reman instrument cluster. Very common with GM chassis but I don't know what Freightliner use during that time. They are an item that requires some understanding of how to remove, test and install the new units.
The cluster is supplied with the chassis when it is shipped to the coach maker. Your problem is or could be quite technical and many of the RV service centers do not have skilled chassis service employees.
The local RV service center farms out most of the electrical, transmission and engine work to a certified chassis service center for the specific chassis. Rich, I would agree regarding "farming out" electrical work.
The Winnebago dealer I purchased this coach from primarily deals in travel trailers 5th wheels and some class c and gas powered class A's.4r70w sbf
They kept it a week and said, it's out of our league, take it to Frieghtliner The place I took it is certified Freightliner I'll share what the ultimate resolution is.
Under the bed there is a instrument control module. It has the colored air lines going to it. Freightliner updated this module several times. Things are not progressing well. It appears at this point to be a control module, but even that is proving to be a challenge to get?Page of Go. Show quick links. Hide Hide permanently.Pp. 269–281. a class of nonvariational hörmander ope
Table of Contents. Page 2 To preserve our environment, fol- This vehicle must be regularly inspected and main- low appropriate environmental rules and regulations tained as indicated in the Cascadia Maintenance when disposing of materials. Manual, and in the Pre- and Post-Trip Inspections Page 3: Reporting Safety Defects Foreword compliance with federal and local jurisdictional regu- hotlineor contact Transport lations.
Low voltage warning
See Fig. Record the number so a duplicate key can be made, if needed. Page Cab-to-sleeper Access Vehicle Access Cab-to-Sleeper Access To open the sleeper access on vehicles with vinyl sleeper curtains, unzip the sleeper curtains. If de- sired, unsnap the curtains all the way around the sides and top, and remove the curtains.
To open the sleeper access on vehicles with velour sleeper curtains, unfasten the snaps at one side, then push the curtain to the opposite side. Sleeper Door Lever 2. Luggage Door Lever Fig. Careless- ness could cause a person to trip and fall, with Do not let the hood free-fall to the full-open posi- possible injury. Page Electrical Power Distribution For the electrical and electronic systems.
The auxiliary PDM The following components make up the power distri- may contain fuses and relays for these devices. SAM Cab 6. Cab Load Disconnect Switch optional location 3. Cab Load Disconnect Switch optional location 4. SAM Chassis 9.Freightliner AC systems are much larger than most vehicle systems, and they use a larger condenser and an air compressor to cool the air. An evaporator is used on freightliner trucks as a heat exchange medium to move the heat generated by the system away from the air conditioning unit.
The most common problem with a freightliner AC system is a leaking compressor. A specially trained mechanic should fix any problems with the AC system, but you can troubleshoot to verify that there is a problem. Turn the engine on and allow the truck to warm up to its normal operating temperature. The water temperature gauge needle should sit in the center of the upper and lower marks on the gauge. Because most freighliners use the engine's pulley system to power the air conditioner, the truck must be at normal operating temperature before the AC will work at its best.
Turn the fan speed on low and turn the AC to the coldest setting. On a freightliner, the sound of the compressor starting is unmistakable. You should hear a low "hum" followed immediately by the cooling fan turning on.How To Perform a Reset
If you do not hear the compressor, it may have failed or is leaking. Either of these two scenarios will require that the compressor be replaced. Turn the fan speed on the highest setting and set the AC to the coldest setting. If there is no cold air, the system needs to be recharged by a professional truck mechanic.
The mechanic pumps refrigerant into the AC system so that the compressor has something to compress. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Turn the engine on and allow the truck to warm up to its normal operating temperature. Step 2 Turn the fan speed on low and turn the AC to the coldest setting. Tips Freightliner trucks normally have a water temp gauge in the center of the dash-making it easy to know when your truck's engine is warm.
The reason for failure on freightliners is almost always a leak in the compressor due to a failure at the cooling line to air compressor seal. This, in turn, causes the compressor motor to continue running while coolant leaks out of the system. Because the compressor needs refrigerant to operate safely, the motor ends up burning out and failing at some point.
Warning If you think the AC system on your freightliner truck needs to be recharged, don't'use the unit until you have the system recharged because it could cause a critical failure of the compressor. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.You may remember a few months ago I wrote an article about how the ECM and engine electrical systems work in your electronic diesel engine.
Currently in our shop, we have a truck that has been plagued with multiple puzzling electrical problems. Neither the dealer nor the local Detroit Diesel shop could figure this one out, and after plenty of parts and money were thrown at this truck, nothing was solved. The first problem we sought to fix on this KW was an intermittent loss of power. When the throttle was put to the floor then released, the throttle would go dead for a few seconds and the truck would lose power.
When you have a problem like this, the first thing you need to do is check the throttle positioning sensor. So, before you start going through all the diagnostic tests for testing an intermittent power loss, you should take a hard look at the throttle positioning sensor. When first checking the throttle positioning sensor, use a voltmeter to compare the voltage of the throttle positioning sensor wire with the ECM sensor return wire.
You should see about half a volt if your foot is off the throttle. When you floor the accelerator, you should see no more than 4.
Freightliner cascadia Driver Manual
Anything outside of this range will cause the engine controller to recalibrate the sensor. Also, if you have Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link, you can see how the engine controller interprets those voltages. After testing the sensor, we found that it was returning nearly 5 volts on the signal wire anytime the pedal was floored. That was all it took for this truck to have a dead pedal. DDEC III and DDEC IV engine controllers will go into a sensor recalibration mode, without showing any signs other than a sharp drop in interpreted throttle position, as the sensor recalibrates over and over again, after seeing something that is out of the expected voltage range.
How did we fix this problem? Knowing a little about basic electronics can pay you back big-time when working with these trucks. Not all electrical problems are this easy, though. Some problems, like the next one we found, require a bit more work. The second problem that this W had was that the engine fan would turn on and off for no apparent reason. To further complicate this problem, anytime the engine fan clutch was engaged, the Jake brakes would not activate.
The interaction between these two circuits could only happen in one of three places. This harness supplies the input and output signals for both the Jake and the engine fan. This is the first harness that we needed to remove from the truck and inspect.
Low Voltage issues
The second possibility is that the Jake and fan override input signals are interfering with one another in the dashboard wiring harnesses. Dashboard harnesses are not subjected to as much heat, corrosive substances and vibration as the harnesses on the other side of the firewall, so odds are better that the problem is in the OEM wiring harness.
When looking for an electrical problem, there are steps to follow. First, you want to determine all of the possible places that the error could be occurring and then, looking at the most probable ones first, start going through them one-by-one and checking everything. On this particular job, we have already eliminated the ECM as a source of these problems by simply replacing it with a test unit and verifying that the problem still persists.
One down, two to go. If the problem was only an intermittent Jake issue, we would be taking a hard look at the sensor and injector harnesses, but as it is directly related to the engine fan, we can eliminate those as potential problem areas at this point.
We are still in the process of going through everything on this Detroit-powered Kenworth, but we have found and fixed some issues already. It is impossible to say, at this point, if the engine fan and Jake brake issue has been resolved because we are still working on the wiring harness and it has not yet been reinstalled in the truck. We think we have fixed the problem, but we will see. In the meantime, we are dealing with a few other issues we have found, as well.
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We were having issues with our low voltage light kicking on. The truck, when idling, was stuttering and shaking badly. We took it t our mechanic who tested the batteries. All four batteries came back showing they were dead. We replaced the batteries with new ones. Now, we are getting the low voltage light and having issues again. If my husband has the truck off and we make coffee using our inverter we can't even make a full pot of coffee.
The coffee brews in 10 minutes. I'm waiting to hear back on te type of batteries that were put in our truck. I will add that when he texts me back. Anyone got any ideas on what is going on? Test the alternator output?
Y'know, the next logical step. It was tested when the old batteries were tested. It tested fine. Is this something that can be put off until next Thursday or should we go ahead w and put the truck in the shop today? Because if it'll last then we will just keep running until Thursday.
What kind of damage are we looking at doing if we continue to run while losing voltage. Did they clean all the connections? Check for loose cables? There are lots of things that can cause low voltage.
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